Amalfi Coast
La città di Amalfi
The Amalfi Coast was beautiful. An atmosphere that was absolutely energetic in the center of popular areas, and then completely tranquil just a few kilometers away in either direction. We had the opportunity to stay in a villa in the city of Amalfi, a 40-minute drive east of Positano. As seen throughout the internet in the Summer of 2021 and beyond, picturesque hillsides dotted with old-world buildings flowing downward towards the edge of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The twisting SS163 is carved into the cliffside coast that winds its way over ancient bridges and through medieval towns. The drive was just as enchanting entering the area for the first time as it was on our departure.
There were a few stops in Amalfi that were worth the time, Il Duomo being one of them. A sight that can be appreciated by anyone regardless of their faith. Renaissance art on full display, frescos adorning the ceilings, and ancient catacombs a level below. We toured a lemon grove in the hillside of Amalfi that was well worth the gimmicky appearing transport vehicles used to shuttle tourist to the location. I’ve never considered eating the peel and pith of a lemon until I was encouraged to do so by our guide. The Amalfi Lemon, lo Sfusato Amalfitano, is the pride and joy of the people who cater to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Taking part in a cooking class during the tour is worth your time, especially if you plan to recreate your newfound recipes at home. You’ll likely be offered a local digestif after each dinner. Limoncello is made by infusing the yellow peel of the lemon in grain alcohol for about 30 days. Served in a very cold shot glass, the petite drink is heavy on the sugar which makes it very easy to enjoy.
La cucina Amalfitana is seafood. You will be informed on whatever the catch of the day is and served in the antipasti, primi, secondi fashion. You will overeat if you attempt to keep up with the locals. Do try the gamberoni alla griglia and any limone pasta you come across. Lobster was regularly on the menu but keep in mind that some food is priced by weight (e.g. €15/100g). Limone gelato was delicious, we enjoyed ours near the Porto di Amalfi. Pro tip: obtain reservations for Fattoria La Tagliata , a family run farm-to-table restaurant above the city of Positano. The food was spectacular, the best meal during our stay near the coast. There was no menu, the food spills out of the kitchen like a faucet. Una nonna is prepping a vegetable course, a pasta course, and a meat course in the kitchen with her nephews. The house wine is made on site, ask for both the red and white. If you chose the right time of day, you’ll be rewarded with a perfect sunset.
Do yourself a favor and rent a scooter. It really is the best way to navigate this part of Italy. How else would we have experienced the unmistakable aroma of fresh baked bread in the morning air as we navigated towards Positano? We rented a 125cc Liberty scooter which was easy to park nearly anywhere. Due to the UNESCO designation, parking is limited and new construction is prohibited. Ask local restaurants if they have parking availability ahead of time. Consider downloading the easypark app as this was actually one of the best ways to pay the meters near the beaches in Amalfi.
Speaking of beaches, consider spending a day at Areinzo beach club. A small boat will take you from il porto di Positano to the beach club. If you found l’aternativa cocktail bar on the pier, then you are in the right place. Arienzo has a distinct orange and white stripe motif that contrasts against the dark gravel beach. The beach club is enveloped by cliffs that help protect this area. There are no pesky merchants trying to sell you goods on the beach, just other like-minded people who want to relax and enjoy their holiday. Arienzo was like a time capsule from the 1960’s. The heat of the Italian summer on the beach helps to build the courage needed to enter the spring-like water, as does imbibing. There really isn’t a bad spot on the beach, we opted for third row.
If you can, charter a boat to Capri. Don’t disembark onto the island. It’s best to cruise along the coast and allow time to pass. Very reminiscent of Cabo San Lucas, the rock formation and natural arches are stunning. You could always catch a ferry to take you to Capri if you really want to visit the island. However, if you are chartering a boat take advantage of the water activities and have your pilot take you up close to some of the sites. If you get motion-sickness, take some prophylactic medication as the water can be rough during the summer. Yes, it may feel cliche by now, but Amalfi was worth visiting.
An ideal length of stay is 4 days. This allowed for exploration, immersion, and relaxing without feeling too rushed for time.
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